A broken washer stops a household fast: wet clothes sitting in the drum, laundry piling up, and sometimes water across the floor. We repair washers across Plano by testing first and replacing second. We check the drain, the door lock, the water level sensor and the fill system before we quote, which is the difference between a cleared filter and a pump nobody needed. You see what failed, you get one price, and you decide.
| Symptom | Most likely cause | Quick check before you call |
|---|---|---|
| Won’t drain | Clogged pump filter (coin trap), kinked drain hose, failed drain pump | Front-load: drain and clean the filter behind the lower panel |
| Won’t spin | Unbalanced load, door lock or lid switch, drive belt, motor or control board | Redistribute the load and run drain/spin |
| Leaking | Torn door boot, loose or cracked fill hose, inlet valve, pump seal | Turn off both valves and stop using it |
| Won’t fill or fills slowly | Scaled inlet valve screens, failed water inlet valve, low pressure | Check both valves are fully open |
| Won’t stop filling | Inlet valve stuck open, pressure switch or water level sensor | Turn off the valves |
| Door won’t lock or unlock | Door lock assembly, water left in the drum, control fault | Run drain/spin, then unplug for 5 minutes |
| Won’t start or stops mid-cycle | Lid or door switch, control board, power supply | Note the error code; don’t keep resetting |
| Musty smell | Residue in the door boot, dispenser and drain | Wipe the boot and run a cleaning cycle |
| Burning smell or tripping breaker | Motor, wiring, control board | Unplug it and call |
| What you notice | Usual cause |
|---|---|
| Banging or walking on spin | Worn suspension rods or shock absorbers, unlevel feet, shipping bolts left in |
| Grinding or roaring that grows over weeks | Drum bearings and tub seal, often a repair-or-replace decision |
| Humming with no draining | Drain pump jammed by a coin or sock |
| Clicking at start-up | Door lock trying to engage |
| Squeal (belt-drive top-loaders) | Worn belt or motor pulley |
Front-loaders seal water in with a rubber door boot (gasket) and lock the door during the wash. Their common failures are a torn or mildewed boot, a failed door lock, a clogged pump filter (the coin trap behind the lower panel) and worn drum bearings, which show up as a roar on spin and a rust streak behind the drum. Front-loaders are efficient, but they hold residue in the boot, so smell complaints are common.
Top-loaders use an agitator or a low-profile impeller (wash plate). Common faults are a failed lid switch or lid lock (won’t spin), worn suspension rods (heavy shaking), a broken drive belt or coupler, and a stuck water inlet valve. High-efficiency top-loaders sense the load, so a misread pressure switch or an oversized load can make them look broken when they aren’t.
Stacked units and laundry centers use the same parts in a tighter cabinet, and some need the dryer lifted or the unit pulled out to reach the pump or valves. Tell us it’s stacked when you book so we can plan the access and the time.
The City of Plano’s water quality reports show total hardness of up to 312 ppm in 2023 and 202 ppm in 2024 at the NTMWD Wylie treatment plant, roughly 18 and 12 grains per gallon and firmly in the hard range. In a washer, those minerals:
Use HE detergent and less of it, and clean the boot and filter regularly. More in our hard water guide.
Every visit starts with an $89 diagnostic, credited toward the repair. You get one written price before work: approve it, ask questions, or decline and pay only the diagnostic.
| Repair | Typical total in Plano |
|---|---|
| Drain pump, hose or filter | $130–$350 |
| Door lock or lid switch | $150–$280 |
| Suspension rods or shock absorbers | $180–$300 |
| Control board | $250–$500 |
| Drum bearings | $400–$900 |
| Washer age | Pump, lock, switch, rods, valve | Bearings, motor, board |
|---|---|---|
| Under 7 years | Repair | Usually repair |
| 7–12 years | Repair | Compare the quote with a new washer |
| 12+ years | Repair if the tub and drum are sound | Replacement often makes more sense |
A common rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than about half the price of a comparable new washer and the machine is past 10 years old, replace it. See repair or replace.
| Front-load | Top-load | |
|---|---|---|
| Most common fault | Door boot, door lock, pump filter | Lid switch, suspension rods, belt or coupler |
| Smell risk | Higher (the boot holds moisture) | Lower |
| Bearing failure | More common and costly | Less common |
| Water use | Lower | Higher (agitator models) |
Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE and GE Profile, Electrolux, Frigidaire, Bosch, Kenmore, Amana and Speed Queen: front-load, top-load, high-efficiency and stacked laundry centers. The model label is usually inside the door or lid, or on the back panel.
We repair washers in every Plano ZIP (75023, 75024, 75025, 75026, 75074, 75075, 75086, 75093 and 75094), including Legacy West, Willow Bend, Deerfield, Kings Ridge, Lakeside on Preston, Whiffletree, Indian Creek and Downtown Plano. Homeowners, renters and property managers welcome, with tenant coordination and itemized invoices. Dryer acting up too? See dryer repair, or browse our FAQ hub and recent repairs.
The most common cause is a clogged pump filter or drain hose: coins, hair ties, lint or a small sock. If the filter is clear and the pump hums without draining, the drain pump has likely failed. A kinked drain hose behind the washer can also stop draining.
Start with the load: one heavy, wet item can unbalance the drum and stop the spin. If balance isn’t the problem, the usual causes are a failed lid switch or door lock, a worn drive belt or coupler, a drain fault, or a motor or control board problem.
A leak under a washer usually comes from a torn door boot (front-load), a loose or cracked fill hose, a failing water inlet valve or a leaking drain pump seal. Turn off both water valves and stop using the washer until it’s checked, because slow leaks damage floors and ceilings.
The smell comes from detergent and fabric residue trapped in the door boot, dispenser and drain, where mildew grows, and Plano’s hard water makes residue worse. Wipe the boot, clean the pump filter, run a cleaning cycle, use less HE detergent and leave the door open between washes.
Heavy shaking on spin usually means worn suspension rods or shock absorbers, unlevel feet or an unbalanced load. On a new washer, check that the shipping bolts were removed. Ongoing banging can damage the tub and floor, so get it checked early.
Most washer repairs in Plano cost $130 to $350. Control boards run $250 to $500 and drum bearings $400 to $900. Every visit starts with an $89 diagnostic, credited toward the repair, and you get one written price before any work.
Usually yes for pumps, door locks, lid switches, valves and suspension rods, which are affordable fixes that add years. For drum bearings, a motor or a control board on a machine past 10 to 12 years, replacement often makes more sense. We give you the numbers honestly.
Soaking-wet clothes mean the washer didn’t drain fully, didn’t reach spin speed, or stopped the spin because the load was unbalanced. Run drain and spin with a balanced load. If clothes are still wet, the drain pump, door lock, belt or control needs testing.
An error code points to a system, such as water supply, drain, door lock, motor or controls, not always to a specific failed part. Codes differ by brand, including Samsung, LG and Whirlpool. Note the exact code and model number and avoid repeated resets, which helps us diagnose faster.
Yes. After testing, the technician shows you the failed part or the reading that proves it, explains it in plain words and gives you one written price for parts and labor. Nothing is replaced until you approve, and if you decline you pay only the $89 diagnostic.
Most washer repairs take about 45 to 90 minutes on site when the part is on the truck, including pumps, door locks, lid switches, valves and suspension rods. Bearings, motors or brand-specific boards may need a return visit once the part arrives.
Only if it isn’t leaking, tripping the breaker or smelling of burning. If it drains slowly or won’t spin, small balanced loads are usually fine. Never run a washer that’s leaking; turn off the valves and wait for the repair.
Tell us front-load or top-load and what it’s doing. $89 diagnostic credited toward your repair and a written price before work.